Cappellano, Barolo "Pie Franco", 2014

Pre-phylloxera ungrafted vines—Teobaldo's "folly" that became legendary. In the 1980s, Teobaldo Cappellano planted ungrafted Nebbiolo Michet in the Gabutti cru of Serralunga, reverting to pre-phylloxera methods. Only a handful of producers worldwide maintain such vineyards. Teobaldo famously banned journalists unless they reviewed without scores. The 2014 suffered 50% yield loss from weather but gained "inner sweetness and depth"—kirsch, orange peel, cedar, mint. An especially gracious, airy Piè Franco.