Domaine du Vissoux (Pierre-Marie Chermette), Brouilly Pierreux, 2014

Pierre-Marie Chermette is a fifth-generation Beaujolais grower who farms and vinifies the old-fashioned way, with no chaptalization and no added yeast, letting each cru's terroir come through cleanly. Brouilly is the largest and southernmost of the ten Beaujolais crus, and Pierreux is a named site here. This 2014 has a decade-plus of age, so its fruit has mellowed into something more savory and complex. A back-vintage cru Beaujolais from one of the region's great traditionalists, drinking well now. From a private collection.