Eric Rodez, Champagne Blanc de Blancs (Base 2021), NV

A grower Champagne from one of Ambonnay's quiet masters. Eric Rodez trained at Krug before taking over his family estate, and he farms his 6 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards organically and biodynamically across some three dozen tiny plots. This Blanc de Blancs is all Chardonnay grown in a village far better known for Pinot Noir, which is exactly what makes it interesting: it has the chalky cut of Chardonnay but the broad-shouldered weight of Ambonnay underneath. Built on a 2021 base with a deep library of reserve wines blended in, it drinks beautifully now and over the next several years.