Ferrando, Carema Etichetta Nera, 2006

The Etichetta Nera (black label) is Ferrando's legendary top Carema, made only in the best vintages from a selection of the family's finest parcels, just around 3,000 bottles when produced. Where the white label is raised in a mix of barrels, the Nera sees smaller French oak and tends to be richer, denser and dramatically longer-lived; stories abound of it showing beautifully at 25 and even 30 years old. This is alpine Nebbiolo at its most ageworthy: high-toned and perfumed, but with serious depth. The 2006 came from a classic, structured vintage and is now mature yet has years left to give.