Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Cerretta, 2013

Cerretta is the newer single-cru in the Giacomo Conterno lineup, from a parcel of Nebbiolo in Serralunga d'Alba that Roberto Conterno bought in 2008. This is the address that defined traditional Barolo, and Cerretta delivers the house signature: clay-rich soils and that fierce Serralunga structure, with no shortcuts in the cellar. The 2013 is a classic, austere vintage built for the long haul, and it carries the tannic spine to match. Give it a long decant now or, better, tuck it in the cellar for years. This is Barolo for the patient.