Giovanni Canonica, Barolo Paiagallo, 2017

Giovanni Canonica doesn’t chase polish—he bottles purity. His tiny-production Barolo Paiagallo comes from a high-altitude vineyard just above the town of Barolo itself, and it’s one of the last truly old-school wines in the region. No fining, no filtering, native yeasts, and long aging in old botti—it’s Barolo as it once was: soulful, complex, and just a little wild around the edges.

The 2017 is open-knit and expressive, with soaring aromas of dried rose, truffle, and wild strawberry, followed by a palate that walks the line between delicate and powerful. The tannins are present but not domineering—more sinew than muscle—and there’s a nervy, almost Burgundian tension that keeps it alive in the glass.

This isn’t the wine for someone chasing textbook “modern” Barolo. But for those who crave character, emotion, and a direct line to vineyard and vintage, Canonica’s Paiagallo is a rare and beautiful thing. Drink with reverence—or a braised rabbit ragù.