Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, 2016

If you've ever stood in En Remilly and looked downhill, you've looked at Le Montrachet — the great grand cru (which straddles Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet) sits just below this 1er Cru, separated by a path. Hubert Lamy's En Remilly is the flagship Saint-Aubin from one of the most precise white-Burgundy producers working today; Olivier Lamy took over from his father in 1995 and has spent thirty years refining a style built on extreme planting density, long lees aging in seasoned barrels, and a horror of new oak. The 2016 vintage was a small, frost-marked year that delivered classical, tightly wound wines, and ten years on this is opening into its window — chiseled, mineral, ringing with energy and the kind of focus that explains why En Remilly fetches the prices it does.