Neversink Spirits, Pigeon New York Dry Gin

The pigeon on the label is a wink at New York, and the gin inside earns it. Neversink Spirits distills just north of the city from a base of 100% New York-grown corn, then builds out eleven botanicals: juniper, of course, plus apple blossom, bergamot orange, cubeb pepper, cardamom, coriander, cassia, citrus peel, angelica and orris. The juniper is macerated overnight before distillation while the rest are vapor-infused in a hybrid pot-and-column still, a method that keeps the delicate florals intact rather than boiling them into submission. The result is a classic dry gin with a distinctly local accent — piney juniper first, then honeysuckle, lemon peel, Earl Grey and a snap of white pepper. Bottled at 43%, it has the backbone for a proper Martini and enough perfume to make a Negroni sing. A serious New York gin that doesn't need to shout about it.