Taittinger, Champagne Brut Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, 2004

Comtes de Champagne is Taittinger's flagship, made only in top vintages and only from 100% Chardonnay grown on the Grand Cru chalk of the Cote des Blancs (Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger). Only first-press juice is used, a small share is fermented in new oak, and the wine ages roughly eight to twelve years on its lees in the house's Gallo-Roman chalk cellars under Reims. The 2004 is a more classically balanced, elegant vintage than the powerful 2002, with terrific freshness and that signature Cote des Blancs precision. It is drinking gorgeously now but has the structure to keep going. Pour it in white-wine glasses to let it breathe.