Caroline Morey, Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, 2019

Six years on, Caroline Morey's 2019 Chassagne Rouge is settling into the window where village Burgundy gets interesting. Caroline is the eldest daughter of Jean-Marc Morey (the Morey family has been in Chassagne since the mid-sixteenth century) and now wife of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey—they share a winery in the village, but her domaine is entirely her own, built from a parcel of family vines she took over in 2014 and has since expanded to seven hectares. Her reds get adapted to the site and vintage with a touch of whole bunch, never above 50%, and they age in 350L barrels. 2019 was a concentrated, structured vintage in Chassagne, and this village red wears those bones well—the kind of red Burgundy that proves the white-wine commune still grows excellent Pinot Noir.