Domaine Chamonard, Morgon, 2020

This is Morgon with roots—literally and stylistically. Domaine Chamonard, originally revived by Joseph Chamonard and now run by his son-in-law Jean-Claude Chanudet (of Foillard and Lapierre orbit), farms old vines organically and vinifies with a light hand: native yeasts, whole clusters, no fining or filtration, and a long élevage in neutral foudres.

The 2020 vintage is generous but grounded—dark cherry and blackberry at the core, wrapped in earth, smoke, and savory herbs. It’s fuller-bodied than many Beaujolais, with real structure and a mineral edge that speaks more to Burgundy than glou-glou. There’s a wildness here, but it’s controlled—a kind of rustic elegance that reveals itself slowly with air.

Best with something equally soulful—grilled lamb, lentils with mushrooms, or just time and a wide glass. For fans of Foillard, Breton, or wines that straddle the line between natural texture and classical structure, Chamonard’s Morgon is a must.