Domaine du Pelican (d'Angerville), Cuvee Brut 'S', 2020

A Volnay master making sparkling wine in the Jura — and doing something a little rebellious with it. Cuvée Brut 'S' is 100% Savagnin, the Jura's proud native grape, made by the traditional method with zero dosage (no added sugar), so it's bone-dry and pure. Because the rules for Crémant du Jura don't permit an all-Savagnin sparkler, d'Angerville simply declassifies it to Vin de France rather than compromise the idea. The result is athletic and high-strung: sea spray, lemon peel and a whisper of toast, with laser acidity and no sweetness to hide behind. This is grower fizz with a point of view — a great-with-food aperitif that walks straight into a bar and orders oysters.