Nicola Gatta, Quattrocento Extra Brut R19, NV

Nicola Gatta farms biodynamically just outside Franciacorta and deliberately bottles outside the DOCG rules, because playing by the book was never the point. Quattrocento is his traditional-method sparkler from high, limestone-rich vineyards in Gussago, mostly Chardonnay with a splash of Pinot Nero. The R19 marks a 2019 base, aged about 40 months (its '40 lune') on the lees with no added sulfites, finished Extra Brut. What you get is a mineral, chalky-cut fizz with real savory texture, a grower's answer to Champagne from an Italian outsider who does it his own way.